Departing from the shore of Piazza Cavour in Como, chief town of the province
and center of commerce and industry (especially in the sectors of textiles and
silk), the boat sails longitudinally along the entire basin for approximately
four hours.
Cernobbio
The boat lands at Cernobbio, an important center for tourism situated at the
foot of Monte Bisbino. At 1325 meters, the summit of the mountain offers a
magnificent panorama of the Lake. Above all, this small town is celebrated for
the grandiose Villa D'Este (15565-70), the residence of Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio
designed by Pellegrino Tibaldi. Situated on the lake with a splendid view, the
villa has a spacious Italian-style garden with a famous perspective boulevard-
which rises to the top of hills- lined with cypress trees and intervals of water
games making it one of the Italy's most beautiful Renaissance roads.
Cernobbio
At the beginning of the 19th century, when the complex was reopened after
centuries of abandon, a tract of craggy mount was added. Planned in the English
style, the path was made up of rocks, brushwood, waterways and lanes. In 1814
the villa was the residence of Caroline of Brunswich, the wife of George IV of
England, who dedicated the villa to her family, descendents of Guelfo D'Este. In
1873, after a great turn over of ownership, Villa D'Este became a luxury hotel.
Torno
After a brief crossing of a few minutes, you arrive in Torno, a locality at the
foot of Monte Piatto on the eastern shore. Celebrated for its productions of
textiles and tapestries, the structure and the buildings of the town still
preserve the characteristic of a mediaeval village.
The two principal nuclei of
this structure are the 15th century parish of Santa Tecla (which faces a small
port) with its portals and Ghotic rose-windows. And the 14th century church of
San Giovanni with its Romanesque bell towers.
From here there is a path (circa
1.5 kilometers) which leads to one of the oldest villas on the Lake, Villa Pliniana with its open-front gallery and surrounding vegetation. It reflects
solitarily and evocatively against the water.
The Villa was constructed in 1573
by the Governor of Como, Count Giovanni Anguissola.
Hotel Villa Flora - Torno
Its name derived from the Fonte Pliniana, whose waters flow intermittently and were of great interest to
both Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger. Villa Plinio was a destination for
travelers and illustrious personalities: Stendhal, Foscolo, Rossini, Berchet,
Byron, Shelley and Fogazzaro whose novel "Malombra"- despite the fact that
events took place on Lake Segrino- was inspired by the story here of Prince
Belgioioso and the Duchess Paisance.
Moltrasio
Crossing the lake once again, the boat sets shore at Moltrasio. This tourist
center is named after the Grey-blue stone used frequently in traditional
constructions in the Como region. Moltrasio has its fare share of villas and
parks, many of which may be found on the west shore. Among these are Felice
Soave's 18th Century Villa Passalacqua with its evocative Italian-style terrace
garden. Nearby stands Saint Agata, the Romanesque 11th century church located in
the park of Villa Salterio.
Pognana
The next two destinations are on the same eastern shore. First stop is Faggetto
which is situated in the midst of forests and beech-wood trees on the slopes of
Mount Palanzone. The hamlets of Molina (at 467 meters), Lema (at 533 meters) and
Palanzo (at 596 meters) are connected to the lake by way of stepped paths. Then
Pognana, with the Romanesque church San Rocco, modest stone buildings and
prestigious 7th and 8th century structures. On the opposite shore is Torriggia
Laglio (there is no place to anchor) which is comprised of two centers. Above
Lagio is the famous "Buco dell'Orso" (Bear hole) where the fossils of the Ursus
spelaeus were found. Both the Municipality and the Como Civic Museum house these
fossils. Torriggia is situated on the narrowest point of the lake at 650 meters.
Careno
The following stop is Careno, a small village accessible only on foot with
typical stone houses and two churches: the Romanesque San Martino and the 7th
century Parish "dell'Assunta". Just ahead on the same shore is Nesso.
A center
formed by an agglomerate of dwellings, it is well-known for its "orrido"; the
rocky gorge into which the waters from the Nos'e Valley, descending from the
Tivano plane, flow into a waterfall.
This vision is made all the more evocative
by a Roman bridge which crosses the ravine. In Nesso, characteristic houses line
the stepped paths which descends to the lake and re-ascend to the ruins of the
castle destroyed by Francesco II Sforza in 1531.
Thanks to a scenic path which
begins in Nesso, it is possible to reach the spacious valley of the Tivano plane
and the Monte San Primo (at 1685 meters). Towards Argegno, the boat passes over
the deepest part of the lake which descend to 414 meters. Here during the
Fifties, professor Auguste Piccard tested his bathyscaphs.
Argegno
Passing a rather wild stretch of
coast, the boat docks at the inlet of Argegno. Given its favorable positioning
at the outlet of Intelvi Valley, where the Mount Singhignola and the famous
Belvedere di Lanzo d'Intelvi offer two splendid panoramas, this town is a
prominent tourist resort. Lanzo is particularly well equipped with tourist
services, hotels and sports. Its dozens of villas were an expression of this
great resort up until the end of last century.
Comancina Island
From Argegno the boat continues along the western shore, territory of the
ancient parish of Comancina Island. Beyond the lake, the shore offers more
unusual types of settlements: Cavagnola with its tip, Carvagnana, Sormazzana,
Bagnana and Rozzo. After a stop at Colonno, with its Romanesque San Michele
overlooking the lake, and a stop at Sala, with its 18th century Villa Beccaria
(restructured in the 19th century), you arrive at Comacina Island, the lake's
only island.
A fortified point for the control of the lake, Comacina island was
under the rule of the Romans and the Byzantines. In 1169 it was devastated by
the Comaschi (allies of Barbarossa) because it was allied with Milan during the
battle which involved all Larian localities.
Donated to the Italian State by the King of Belgium in the beginning of the
century, the island is now run by an organization. Rich in both pre-historic and
historic remains, the island is full of the ruins of numerous sacred structures
from the various eras, the baroque Oratorio di San Giovanni is the only edifice
to remain intact: www.comacina.it/isola/isle.htm
At the top of Mount Ossuccio (419 meters) is the 6th century "Santuario della
Madonna del Soccorso" with its 8th century bell-tower and panoramic view of the
Lake. The Sanctuary may be reached by way of a processionary path made up of a
boulevard paved with cobblestone steps and lined by 14 chapels (1635-1714)
dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary.
The chapels contain groups of polychromatic terracotta statues most of which
were made by Francesco and Agostino Silva, which on a smaller scale are
reminiscent of the Sacred Mount of Varese. From Lezzeno, the first stop after
Comacina Island, the view the other shore embracing the Lavedo peninsula which
stretches out into the lake with the vast complex of Villa Arconati Visconti or
Balbianello (named after the promontory).
The structure is comprised of several sectors: two residential buildings which
were the original 6th century nucleus and may have been designed by Tibaldi for
Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio. These were eventually expanded in the 8th century by
Cardinal Duni who erected the Villa Balbianello at the extreme tip of the
peninsula. There is also a church, a small, picturesque wet-dock and a large
park which is one of the most beautiful in the area.
Tremezzo
Just beyond the peninsula, beginning with Lenno (which has two interesting 11th
century Romanesque structures: the church of Santo Stefano and the octagonal
baptistry), is the start of the "Tremezzina" Riviera or "Riviera delle Azalee"
which ends slightly after Cadenabbia.
The Riviera, with a magnificent view of
the central basin of the lake, is studded with villas and hotels surrounded by
verdant parks and gardens. At the end of the Riviera is Tremezzo.
This important
tourist resort is favored by its particularly mild climate and by the landscape
quality with its characteristic arcade appearance along the shore. In a scenic
spot at the end of the town is the Villa Carla, one of the most and well
frequented locations in the Larian area. Positioned at the summit of a stepped
terrace garden, it was constructed between the end of the 7th century and the
first half of the 8th century for nobleman Giorgio Clerici. In 1801 it was
purchased by Giovanni Sommariva who enriched it with art (from Canova to
Thorvaldsen, from Appiani to Hayez) and expanded its Italian garden with a
splendid English park filled with azaleas and rhododendrons. Today the villa is
state property and since 1929 it has been the management of the "Ente Autonomo
Villa Carlotta" who maintained it and schedule visits.
Bellagio
Then
the boat lands at Bellagio, at the top of the "Larian triangle", on the
promontory that divides the Como branch from that of Lecco.
From Bellagio you can proceed with this itinerary to visit by boat the North part of lake
Como, reaching Colico. In alternative you can cross with Ferry to Varenna as
indicated below.
Returning via Varenna
From Bellagio you can take
the ferry that takes you to Varenna. The ferry runs every 30-50 minutes until 10PM.
From Bellagio the boat
crosses the Lake in about 15 minutes to land on the eastern bank, at Varenna,
terminus with Cadenabbia of the ferryboat service for vehicles, situated on a
promontory at the mouth of the Esino stream.
From Varenna you can take the Trenitalia train to go back to Lecco and then to Milan.